Opinion: Let’s Stop Gatekeeping Kava — It’s Time We Embrace Growth, Respect, and Global Reach
By Melino Maka | Tonga Independent News
A debate is simmering over who should or shouldn’t be allowed to run kava businesses—particularly when those entrepreneurs are not of Tongan or broader Pacific descent. What began as commentary about Auckland’s Vibes Kava, led by Sāmoan and non-Pacific co-owners, has spilled across social media and talkback circles, with accusations of cultural appropriation, misrepresentation, and even disrespect.
But let’s be clear: this is not an attack on culture. What we’re seeing is the natural tension that comes with cultural products going global—and we, as Tongans and Pacific people, must learn to lead these conversations with confidence, not fear.
We need to stop gatekeeping kava.
If someone wants to build a business around kava—be they Tongan, Samoan, Pākehā, Māori, or otherwise—what matters is how they do it. Is it with respect? Is it informed by proper knowledge of what kava is and what it means to our communities? Are they transparent about their journey with kava? If the answer is yes, we should celebrate their efforts.
Todd Henry, co-owner of Four Shells Kava in Auckland, is a perfect example of this. Despite being of European descent, he runs a Tongan-inspired kava bar alongside his Tongan wife Anau, underpinned by values like faka’apa’apa (respect), tauhivā (nurturing relationships), and loto tō (humility). His business exists not to replace or distort kava traditions—but to elevate and preserve them in a modern setting.
Some critics are quick to cry foul when kava is bottled and branded with words like “buzzy” or “chill.” They say it cheapens the tradition. But we must also ask: are these critics equally outraged when Tongans sell pizza, burgers, or champagne? Let’s not forget:
- Pizza, a dish with deep roots in Italian culture, is now a global fast-food staple. No one is shaming Tongans for owning pizza shops.
- Champagne, originally from France, is sold in bars across the world, and we don’t demand cultural lineage to serve it.
- Yoga, with sacred Indian origins, is now practiced in gyms globally, often taught by non-Indians. Yet the focus is on accessibility and wellness, not exclusion.
- Even sushi, tied closely to Japanese heritage, is often served in New Zealand by Korean or Chinese chefs. Quality and respect matter more than ethnicity.
We must move past the idea that only those with ancestral ties can sell, share, or innovate within cultural spaces. Culture is not a prison—it’s a foundation. And just as our ancestors shared knowledge freely across oceanic networks, we too can share our treasures like kava with the world—if done with care.
Let’s not mistake criticism as a badge of protectionism. The greater risk is that, by being overly possessive, we stifle the very global opportunities that could benefit our kava growers in Tonga, Samoa, and Fiji. Do we not want a world where kava is respected on the shelves of wellness shops in Paris, bars in Los Angeles, and social spaces in Berlin?
That future is only possible if we support those helping us expand kava’s reach—regardless of their skin tone.
It’s time we focus our energy on education, not exclusion. If someone is misrepresenting kava, let’s correct them. If someone is doing it well, let’s uplift them. And if someone wants to learn, we should welcome them to the circle, sit them down, and serve them a shell.
Because that’s what kava is for—it brings people together.
Final Thought:
Kava isn’t just a root. It’s a bridge. Let’s not burn it by drawing lines between “us” and “them.” Let’s build more bridges—and in doing so, give back to the growers, the farmers, and the faikava circles that gave this gift to the world.
